I have a Honda Civic SiR with a few mods. I drive the car everyday to work, but have noticed it is starting to run funny in the mornings. Instead of keeping a good idle, it seems to rise up and then almost stall. Sometimes it seems like it is only holding 100rpm and the whole car shakes! After about 15 minutes it goes away, so I’m guessing it might have something to do with being cold? The funny thing is I have owned the car for around three years and this seems to be a new problem, so I’m wondering if a sensor or something might be f**ked? If you have any suggestions of where I should start looking that would be cool! Wicked mag! it’s my bible!
I would say you’re correct as far a sensor goes. Without looking at it, I’d first be looking at the ECU water temperature sensor or cold start bypass for idle up. You can do a diagnosis test by counting how many times the LED lights flash on the ECU box. Search the net for the codes based on your ECU and how to extract them.
Hi guys! Just got a quick question for you regarding engines: I have been offered (for a very good price) a complete RB26DETT engine with computer, loom, etc. My friend was going to put it in his GTS-t, but has now lost interest with the project and is selling stuff off. He got the engine from a wrecker a couple of years back, so it’s out of warranty, which worries me a little. I have heard that these engines cost big $ if stuff goes wrong? I want to know is if there are any checks I can make to the engine to see what sort of condition it’s in without having it running? Apparently, the engine came out of a running car with rear damage, but that’s just the wrecker’s word. I have looked inside the oil cap and it seems pretty clean, but I really don’t want to be stuck with a lemon!
Thanks, Craig — Manukau
You’re dead right; they certainly are not cheap to repair! Your best option would be to have a leak-down test performed on the engine, which will give a good idea of compression ratios, and valve and head gasket condition, etc. It takes five minutes to do, so it’s well worth having done.
I just bought myself a ’94 Integra VTiR, which I love! My last car was a Civic VTi, so this is a big step up for me going to an 1800cc DOHC VTEC engine, but now I’m ready to do a little playing. I have a budget of around $2500 – $3000 to spend on the engine (including making it look a bit better) and am wondering what you recommend I do? The car is completely stock, so I’m working with a 100 per cent blank canvas, so to speak. Any help would be great! Hope to have my car in the mag one day soon.
Cheers, Danny T.
Honda’s DOHC VTEC engines give really good returns in the power department for good mods. I would suggest going for a decent set of headers, a good air filter, under-drive pulleys, oversized throttle body and perhaps a VTEC controller. These mods along with a lightweight flywheel to help it rev quick should take care of your budget.
I own a Subaru WRX Type RA with the normal mods: HKS pod filter, three-inch exhaust and a Blitz blow-off valve. I took a friend of mine for a drive the other day and he said he could hear it detonating when it came on boost. I run the car on 96, as it’s all they have where I live and I’m wondering if that could be the problem? What is detonation anyway? I have been driving the car around like this for about a year and haven’t had any problems yet. I just want to check, as I don’t want to end up doing any major engine repairs if I can help it. Any information you could give me would be appreciated.
Tom — Southland
Detonation is like hitting your piston with a gas torch! Basically it increases cylinder temperatures to the point of melt down. This can come from poor quality fuel, too much advanced timing or high intake temperatures. Subaru boxer motors aren’t all that quiet, so it maybe quite hard to hear, so you’d be best to see someone with a knock sensor to check your concerns. It’s not uncommon to see tuned import performance cars come into the country with modified ECUs and sometimes these can be the cause of the problem. It’s not because they are crap, its because they have been set up to run on high octane (100+) fuel that is available off the pump in Japan, but not in New Zealand. Water injection is one way you can alleviate detonation issues, as will a custom rewritten ECU in many cases.
Watch the marshal run for cover as the GAS Celica crashes hard into the wall. The good news is that it’ll be back in time for Import All Stars on 29 March. The team are busy repairing the front that took a heavy hit at the Summernats 08.
We’ve found an interview with the driver of the GAS Celica talking about the car. Click here to listen to it in MP3 format.
Top Secret has announced it will try to break the 400kph (248mph) barrier on the Nardo Circuit in Italy. The 12.6km long oval with 22% banking has been home to many a speed record attempt.
Top Secret will use the V12 twin-turbo Supra that has been doing the rounds over the past year. They’ve already hit 200mph with ease as the 6-litre V12 is rumoured to pump out a healthy 1000+hp.
Last Friday (15 Feb) a time attack session at Tsukuba saw the Top Fuel Honda S2000 break the lap record for a front-engined rear-wheel drive (FR) car. With a lap of 0:55:350 this has thrown down the gauntlet to the other tuning houses as the lap record at Tsukuba holds a lot of kudos.
A new aerodynamic body-styling kit for the Audi A3 8L is being put on the market as from today by the tuning specialist RDX RaceDesign Automotive, Germany. It brushes up the first-generation A3 with rejuvenating body-styling at the same time giving it a more sporty appearance.
The aerodynamic kit comprises a front bumper spoiler intended for use with a single-frame grille. It can be combined with the original Audi grille for the A3/8P Sportback as well es with various other single-frame grilles* supplied by RDX RaceDesign. In addition it can also be used on vehicles with or without headlight washing systems. The final detail, so-to-speak the “crowning” detail, is the chance to have Audi S6 day lights fitted, which can be ordered from Audi dealers.
Optical lowering and more side “muscles” are provided by a side skirt set which shows off the sporty air scoops on each side The new appearance is finished off by a new RDX RaceDesign rear apron fitted with an attractive design fold. The rear part is supplied without openings for the exhaust unit. They can be cut out to size as required.